The 2011 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is excellent, unfurling in the decanter and glass with notes of confit lemon, citrus zest, fresh pastry and a light framing of reduction. On the palate, it's full-bodied, multidimensional and substantial, with this cuvée's characteristic marriage of texture, concentration and focus, concluding with a long finish. Along with the Clos, Valmur is always Raveneau's most backward wine, but in the precocious 2011 vintage it can already be approached with pleasure. Those seeking to catch it at its peak, however, should wait another 4 or 5 years and follow it for a further 10.