1996 - Krug, Vintage Brut

The real surprise among Krug’s 1996s is the 1996 Vintage, which is drinking beautifully, even among this rarified air of single-vineyard Champagnes. The 1996 Vintage is explosive and creamy, with just the right balance of power, richness and freshness. The mousse is perhaps just a touch less refined than in the 1996 Clos du Mesnil and Clos d’Ambonnay, but it is also perfectly measured with the wine’s exuberant personality. This multi-dimensional, textured Champagne is at the early part of its drinking window and promises to deliver an incredible drinking experience over the coming decades. The take-away from this flight of 1996s from Krug is simple. Although the 1996 Vintage can’t possibly be described as inexpensive, it shows exceptionally well next to its much more expensive brethren and clearly delivers a similar level of quality. Readers who have the opportunity to pick up this wine should not hesitate. It is a gem. No disgorgement date provided. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2036. My tasting this year with Olivier Krug was fascinating as I had the rare opportunity to taste all of the house’s 1996’s side by side, a comparison that yielded very interesting results. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200

At 30 years old, the 1996 Vintage is developing an iridescent straw hue, though not particularly deep. The nose is engaging with walnut, warm bread and light smoky scents of moderate intensity. The palate has the presence one expects from a mature Krug, a very subtle background oxidative element mingling with orange bitters and a little oiliness towards the finish. It does beg the question: where will this go from here? As such, I would not hesitate to open bottles in the near future, but there’s no rush.

Very fresh nose and a bone-dry finish. More obvious fruit and more acidity than the 1990 Krug served alongside. Admirably long but still developing. (JR)