2000 - Pol Roger, Sir Winston Churchill

The 2000 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is another vintage that's drinking at peak today, offering up aromas of yellow apples, crisp stone fruit, butter toast, honeycomb and butterscotch, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy palate that's pillowy, open-knit and charming. There's no reason to defer gratification!

Light yellow-gold. Spicy, intensely perfumed aromas of lemon curd, blood orange, anise and jasmine, with a toasty overtone. Supple and concentrated, with dried citrus and hazelnut flavors complemented by ginger and buttered toast. A long, subtly floral finish shows a hint of smoky minerality and impressive energy. This is drinking well now, but I suspect that this expressive Champagne, which is probably based heavily on pinot noir (they won't say), will be at its best over the coming ten years.

Subdued nose, savoury and toasty. Underpowered by comparison with the other vintages (which is so unfair, since this is still a superb wine). Caramelised and complex but there is definitely a relative lightness of touch. (RH)