2012 - Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, William Fevre

The 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos isprincipally situated on the upper parts of the slope with more limestone soil and where half the vines were originally planted by William Fevre’s father during the 1940s. Allowing the glass five minutes to really open, the Les Clos has a very well-defined, mineral-driven bouquet with light granitic scents coming through with continued aeration. It shares the salinity of the Les Preuses, but with perhaps a little more richness and natural harmony toward the finish that just glides across the mouth. Superb. Drink 2017-2035. In my previous life working for a Japanese importer, William Fevre happened to be our supplier of Chablis. This was in the twilight days of its family status, just before the company was acquired by the champagne house, Joseph Henriot in 1998, precipitated by the retraite of William Fevre himself. In 1959, he had joined Domaine de la Maladiere and set about purchasing choice cuts of premier and grand cru vineyard during Chablis’ nadir in the 1960s. He subsequently fought for the notion of le vrai Chablis, vociferously opposing the INAO’s ambitions to expand the boundaries of the region and potentially dilute quality. Then, after a long and successful career and with neither daughter bitten by the wine bug, he had little option but to sell the company. Somewhat confusingly Henriot henceforth changed the marque to William Fevre. The man himself can still be seen walking around the winery, popping into its popular bistro to keep an eye on everything. Now well into his 80s, he is a little hard of hearing, but his interest in both his company and the region remains undimmed and was still tangible when I met him again. His retirement marked a point where their oft-lamented oaky, buttery Chablis erred toward a crisper and mineral-driven style. Oak barrels are not eschewed per se, but there is now a more prudent and sympathetic usage so that it complements rather than dominates the fruit. Since the late 1990s, thei

(production of just 32 hectoliters per hectare in 2012): Pale yellow. Powerful aromas of lime, quinine, crushed rock and iodine. Silky on entry, then dense and penetrating in the middle, displaying terrific limey lift and saline thrust to the flavors of citrus peel, crushed rock, elderflower and white pepper. Most promising today on the echoing, building, palate-staining finish, with strong acidity (more than 4.5 grams per liter, according to Seguier) drawing out the wine's fruit. A knockout--and still an infant.

Much brighter and more expressive on the nose than Les Preuses. Bright lemon and grapefruit aromas, plus a light note of oak spice and leesy richness, though there's a slight S02 intrusion for now. (JH)