2005 - Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes, Geantet-Pansiot

Geantet’s 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Les Feusselottes – from young vines, but a selection massale – goes over to the dark side of the vintage, from its aromas of plum, black cherry, chocolate, exotic flowers and singed meat to its extract-rich palate, where berries, bitter chocolate and roasted meat are under girded by firm, fine tannins and distinctly chalky minerality. For all of its density and dark flavor shadings, this preserves an elegance and refinement that bespeak Chambolle at its best and finishes with an uncanny combination of grip yet lift. Vincent Geantet as usual bottled well before year’s end, and his wines seemed to be having a particularly expressive, fruit-filled day when I tasted. Interestingly, much as he bottles all of his wines together, so, Geantet’s barrel regimen is the same regardless of appellation: one-third each of new, one-year and two-year wood. He prolonged the pre-fermentative maceration to eight days, which seems to have enhanced the brightness of fruit exhibited by these wines. I must say I did not come prepared for quite such an impressive collection as that which Geantet delivered. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722 9228

Bright ruby-red. More obviously ripe on the nose than the Baudes, offering blackberry, chocolate, mocha, smoke and a whiff of pepper. Very sweet, supple and creamy, with the ripe chocolatey character following through in the mouth. Fuller than the Baudes but not as vibrant or detailed. Finishes broad and chocolatey, without quite the lift to merit an outstanding rating.