2010 - Chateauneuf-du-Pape Reserve Auguste Favier, Saint Prefert

Also gorgeous, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Auguste Favier has a salty, cured meat-like quality that makes you salivate. Rich, full-bodied and concentrated, with ample black raspberry, spring flowers, spice-box, licorice and sappy herbs, it will have 15+ years or more of overall longevity. Located in the southern part of the appellation, this impeccably run estate is owned/managed by Isabel Ferrando, who learned winemaking in Gigondas when she worked at Raspail-Ay. Her first vintage in Chateauneuf du Pape was in 2003, and since then, the wines have gone pretty much from strength to strength. Under her Domaine de Saint-Prefert label, she releases five cuvees; two whites and three reds. While this retrospective is focused all on the reds, her two whites are consistently some of my favorites from the region and are well worth seeking out. With regard to the reds cuvees, she makes a classic Chateauneuf du Pape (not reviewed here) that’s a rough blend of 90% Grenache (from 70+-year-old vines) and the balance Syrah and Mourvedre that’s aged in demi-muids and smaller barrels. Her Reserve Auguste Favier, from 60- to 100+-year-old vines, is based largely on Grenache, but incorporates around 15% Cinsault, which gives it a more spicy, elegant profile when compared to the other cuvees. It’s aged in older barrels. Lastly, her top cuvee is certainly the Collection Charles Giraud, and it’s always a rough blend of 60% Grenache (tank) and 40% Mourvedre (demi-muid). It’s consistently one of the most impressive wines in any given vintage. In addition to these three cuvees, she also produces a Grenache-driven cuvee under her Domaine Ferrando label that comes from the La Crau lieu-dit, and is aged in smaller barrels and oak tanks. It’s also worth noting that since 2009, she’s stopped destemming, and the wines show a more spicy, complex profile, but also show slightly less over-the-top richness. In addition, since that time, the wines seem to put on weight (and color) once i

The 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve Auguste Favier unwinds with striking notes of thyme, loamy earth, dried flowers, tobacco and a spoon of raspberry jam. Anchored by grippy tannins, the full-bodied and concentrated 2010 is a powerful, structured red that finishes with balancing freshness on the elongated, savory finale. Feel free to pull the cork, as this won’t get any better from here.

Dark crimson. Very full and sweet and with opulent purple fruit notes but very dry finish. Not really distinctively Châteauneuf – could be SW France perhaps? Well made though. (JR)