2011 - Hermitage Rouge, Jean Louis Chave

A structured, almost wiry wine, Chave's 2011 Hermitage remains a bit tight and tannic. That said, it still offers plenty of pleasure and has developed lovely aromas of leather, cured meat, redcurrants and black olives. Medium to full-bodied, with a rich, velvety feel on the finish, it should continue to drink well for at least another decade and probably longer. While it lacks the generosity of the very best vintages, it's a fine expression of Hermitage.

This wine was still broken out into five different pre-blended components when I visited in November but should be in bottle by now. #1: Intense red fruit and floral qualities, with a bright mineral underpinning. #2: Wilder and spicier, with zesty red fruit and star anise nuances and a touch of smokiness. #3: More dark and brooding, showing powerful bitter cherry and cassis qualities and strong back-end power. #4: Distinctly mineral-driven, precise red fruit and floral pastille aromas and flavors, with a deeper note of cola in the background. #5: Powerful cassis and bitter cherry aromas and flavors pick up spiciness and floral character with a little air. The most densely packed of these samples but showing surprising finishing vivacity and cut. Jean-Louis thinks that this wine will be a little strict for a while after bottling and hopes that people don't jump too quickly into it simply because 2011 is perceived as an easy vintage.

Served blind. This tasted like very young Syrah but so much riper than the Clape Cornas 2011 served alongside, I wondered whether it was from somewhere warmer than the northern Rhône – although 2011 was admittedly an exceptional vintage here. As well as the sweetness here was a certain sour fruit character but the super-polished tannins should have given the game away. With time in the glass, the wine's structure made itself felt. (JR)