2010 - Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras, Ghislaine Barthod

Nothing really stands out in the 2010 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras. The wine is simply beautiful from start to finish. There is more than enough depth and density to stand up to the firm tannins that are typical of this site. Dark red cherries, spices, menthol and new oak fill out the virtually seamless finish. Once again, the wine’s balance and overall sense of proportion are both first-rate. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. This is a knock-out set of wines from Ghislaine Barthod. Yields were, of course, down significantly for the same reasons that affected every grower. The wines possess wonderful clarity and verve throughout the range. I will report on the 2009s from bottle in the April issue. For now, let me say both the 2009s and 2010s are fabulous. Readers who can find them should absolutely not hesitate. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 2010 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras has a more expressive bouquet than the 2010 Beaux-Bruns at the moment. There are lilting scents of crushed strawberry, Morello, rose petal and traces of the sea at low tide. The palate is very well defined with harmonious, quite filigree tannin, showing more tension than the Beaux-Bruns towards the engaging finish. Superb. Tasted at Goedhuis's Burgundy tasting at Vintners Hall.

Christie's dinner before the King's College, Cambridge sale. Magnum. A bit stolid at first and rather marked acidity but with so much obvious potential for further development. (JR)