2007 - Brunello di Montalcino, Pian dell'Orino

The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is more than a worthy follow up to the spectacular 2006. Freshly cut flowers, violets, licorice, leather and tar meld into layers of dark fruit in a dazzling display of elegance and power. Silky tannins and expressive perfumed notes both add further refinement on the huge, explosive finish. The combination of ripeness of the year allied to a classic sense of structure is immensely appealing. This is one of the few 2007s I tasted that still needs time in the cellar, even though today it is flat-out stunning. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. It is hard to imagine how much Jan Erbach and Caroline Pobitzer have accomplished in just a few years. Erbach and Pobitzer embody the same adventurous, risk-taking ethos one rarely sees in Montalcino, but which is much more common among top-flight, artisan growers in Burgundy, Piedmont and Champagne. Pian dell’Orino is still a young estate, and the wines can sometimes be a bit inconsistent, especially the Riserva, which I don’t think is still fully formed from a conceptual standpoint. Still, I have little doubt the potential is there for Pian dell’Orino to be one of the top ten producers in Montalcino in a few years. The writing is on the wall. Hard work, passion and dedication always pay off. Jan Erbach describes 2007 as similar to 2003, with the exception of rain during July, which helped the vines recuperate a bit. The harvest was earlier than normal and took place from September 20 to October 1. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Bright deep red. Subtle, precise aromas of raspberry, minerals, smoke and flowers hint at a liqueur-like ripeness; there's something almost Burgundian here. Dense, thick and compellingly sweet, with outstanding chewy depth and sufficient energy to its sappy red berry and mineral flavors. Utterly seamless Brunello with chewy, lush tannins and outstanding lingering sweetness. A very ripe wine for the vintage, but it all works.