2006 - Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna Piano, Valdicava

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is a huge, towering wine. Waves of vibrant, intensely perfumed fruit hit the palate, backed up by the firm, broad tannins of the vintage. Violets, spices, new leather and licorice develop in the glass, yet the 2006 remains painfully young and stubborn. Clean mineral notes frame a blast of dark cherries, plums and camphor on the palate-staining finish. Readers will need to be especially patient, but the 2006 Madonna del Piano is stacking up to be one of the all-time greats from proprietor Vincenzo Abbruzzese. I followed the wine over the course of two days, during which it continued to improve while seeming to gain freshness and structure. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Vincenzo Abbruzzese has been one of Montalcino’s most consistent producers over the last few years, an impression that was reinforced during my visit earlier this year. I tasted every wine in cask, and they were all terrific. I also had a chance to revisit the 1988 and 1990 Madonna del Pianos, both of which have aged beautifully in bottle. Readers who want to learn more about the estate and their wines will want to check out my video interview with Vincenzo Abbruzzese on www.erobertparker.com Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is a savory and radiant beast, with a hauntingly dark bouquet that blends plum and cherry sauce with licorice, lavender and nuances of mocha. Its silken textures are seamless and polished, with an amazing combination of fresh acidity, weight and concentration that creates perfect harmony on the palate. Black raspberry mixes with a tinge of citrus and spice as the 2006 finishes long and staining, still gently tannic and with a pleasantly bitter tinge that calls the taster back to the glass for more. As this bottle evolved over the course of an hour, it lost momentum, became slightly muddled and even seemed to darken in color. I'd advise drinking sooner rather than later, and I'll thus remain conservative with my score.