2010 - Barolo Ginestra Casa Mate, Elio Grasso

Dark red cherries, plums, smoke, tar, menthol and licorice all take shape in the 2010 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Matè. Today the 2010 is painfully young and less expressive than the Gavarini, but equally promising. A generous, resonant wine, the 2010 blossoms in all directions with seemingly endless layers of dark, balsamic-inflected fruit. Today, the Casa Matè is closed and shut down, but it has all the qualities to develop into a spectacular Barolo. The future is bright, especially for readers who can be patient.

The 2010 Barolo Ginestra Casa Mate is a more muscular and layered expression with a softer quality of fruit and a good amount of power and muscle at the back. Its aromatic delivery is constant and steady with an ever-changing array of red fruit, dark spice, cola and anisette. The tannins are particularly well defined and silky. Drink: 2018-2038. Gianluca Grasso says the 2008 Barolo Riserva Roncot will be released in 2015. I did not taste that wine because he felt it needed more time. Otherwise the Grasso family has been working hard with researchers at the University of Turin to identify ambient yeast that they may, or may not, utilize in the future. Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; tel. (800) 862-4585; Admirality Beverage Co., Portland, OR; tel. (503) 265-3555; Wine Warehouse

Monforte d’Alba. A little bluer than the Gavarini. Complex mulchy nose with the lovely high-toned notes that distinguish a fine Barolo. Lots of punch and intensity. Dry finish but really fresh and complex with autumn leaves on the palate. (JR)