2010 - Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge, Pessac-Leognan

Has the structure and power of 2009, but with a far greater nuance of secondary flavours running through the palate. Thoroughly impressive wine, and one that clearly has many decades ahead. These are carved black fruits, precise tannins, crayon and pencil lead, very much powerful Cabernet Sauvignon, sleek, confident, deeper in colour than the 2015 and 2016 vintages, almost certainly reflecting winemaking choices at the time. This is the vintage for me that signals the arrival of the Smith Haut Lafitte as a global force. 90% new oak, Fabien Teitgen technical director, Florence and Daniel Cathiard owners.

Deep garnet colored, the 2010 Smith Haut Lafitte delivers notes of baked plums, boysenberries and dried mulberries with an undercurrent of cigar box, new leather and bouquet garni. Full-bodied, the palate has firm, grainy tannins and bold freshness supporting the maturing fruit, finishing on a stewed tea note.

The 2010 Smith Haut-Lafitte has one of the most backward bouquets among its peers and required more coaxing from the glass. It eventually offers well defined blackberry, wild strawberry, sous-bois and tobacco notes, quite serious but very engaging. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins. There is good body and density here, but it loosens up towards the finish with a lovely touch of sea salt and liquorice on the aftertaste. Superb. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at the BI Wines & Spirits 10-Year On tasting.

Deep, lustrous blackish crimson. Opulently ripe fruit with well-managed tannins almost in the background now. Savoury and vibrant fruit on the palate and great balance. Drinking well already with no sign of excessive chewiness. Glossy and appealing. (JR)