2009 - Hermitage Rouge, Jean Louis Chave

The greatest wines Chave has produced since 2003 are the two cuvees of 2009 Hermitage. The 2009 Hermitage exhibits a black/purple color along with a sumptuous nose of roasted meats, ground pepper, black currants, blackberry jam, and subtle smoke and licorice. The extraordinary bouquet is followed by a wine of extravagant intensity as well as tremendous focus and precision. While not as powerful as the blockbuster 2003, the amazing 2009 may turn out to be a modern day version of their magnificent 1990 (which is drinking incredibly well at present). Anyone who loves Hermitage and has a cold cellar should be lining up to get a few bottles of this beauty. Adding to their acreage in St.-Joseph, the Chaves purchased the famous Clos Florentin Vineyard a few years ago. I suspect they will make a single vineyard wine from this site in the future. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Tasted in four components that were to be blended at the end of November, 2011: #1: Deep cherry and dark berries on the nose and palate, with slow-mounting spiciness and serious finishing cling and power. #2: Wilder and more pungent, offering intense floral-accented red and dark berry qualities and notes of olive and candied licorice. This is mostly Meal, according to Chave. #3: Deep, smoky and aromatic, displaying an array of dark berry and spice qualities and a strong potpourri note. Juicy and focused on the finish, with the dark fruit note repeating. #4: Stunning aromas of violet, rose, black raspberry and cola, with a blast of Asian spices on the back. Juicy, mineral-driven and pure, with excellent finishing clarity and lingering sweetness. This should be a stunner.