1996 - Durfort-Vivens, Margaux

Fully in its tertiary window but retains clear tannic grip, mint leaf, tobacco, cigar box, broth, all those classic mature Left Bank flavours. Has a breath of fresh air running through it that keeps things savoury, with an emphasis on sandalwood and sage. Softly spoken. with pulses of slate minerality on the finish, 35% new oak, Ludovic Lalande was technical director. You will find some 1996 Left Banks that are more powerful at this point, but this is full of charm. 50hl/h yield.

The 1996 Durfort-Vivens is well worth seeking out. Plenty of dark berry fruit mixes with singed leather and pine on the nose, a touch of mint surfacing with time. This is nicely delineated, with a hint of capsicum emerging later. The palate is medium-bodied, nicely balanced with finer tannins than many vintages in the following decade. Yes, it has dried a little with age but has rustic charm and cohesion. Drinking perfectly now, I probably would not leave this too much longer. Tasted at the Durfort-Vivens dinner at Portland restaurant.