2016 - Clos Fourtet, Saint-Emilion

Huge depth of colour, this delivers aromatics to dive right into, packed with violet flowers and baked fruit. The tannic structure remains young and very much in control, with edges of austerity, cradling the fruit, but once you wade through the first few moments, things relax to show creamy raspberry, black cherry and damson, with cocoa bean, espresso, sandalwood, incense, tobacco leaf. Pretty closed down at the moment, great lift on the finish and the sappy saline character, with an eucaluyptus, from ripe Merlot on limestone, just a beautiful wine that you will want to share, but give it time. 60% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

The 2016 Clos Fourtet was picked October 3 to 16 at 28 hl/ha. It is laden with fruit on the nose—so much concentration. Black and red fruit commingle like the 2010, but this is more floral and precise. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins, so refined and focused, fresh and surprisingly classic in style. Maybe it is just beginning to shut down towards the finish, but as I wrote before, this has a long future ahead. Tasted at the Clos Fourtet vertical in April 2023.