2017 - Clos Fourtet, Saint-Emilion

Still young, austere on the opening, with gorgeous freshness, violet flowers and edges of creamy grilled caramel. The acidity comes in waves, and the tight tannins suggest this has a long life but needs a few more years to really open up and let the red fruits out. This was a frost year, with Clos Fourtet suffering a 20% loss, and the areas that were untouched were pretty much pure limestone, which explains both the austerity, and the stunning mouthwatering finish. 32hl/h yield. 60% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants, delivering one of the wines of the vintage in St Emilion.

The 2017 Clos Fourtet was picked between September 20 and October 4 at 22 hl/ha. Youthful in hue, this is very pure and focused on the nose, epitomising a more elegant style of Clos Fourtet—black cherries, hints of cassis and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, white pepper and a touch of clove. There's not so much of the cassis fruit that I remarked upon after bottling, but more cedar and tobacco on the finish. Very fine. Tasted at the Clos Fourtet vertical in April 2023.

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2017 Clos Fourtet is profoundly scented of baked blackberries, plum preserves, mulberries and kirsch with hints of cedar chest, iron ore and tapenade plus a waft of smoked meats. Medium-bodied, the palate is laden with earthy/savory nuances, supported by finely grained tannins and loads of freshness, finishing long and earthy. The blend is 90% Merlot,7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Franc. It was aged for 16 months in french oak barrels, 60% new.

Tasted blind. Deep ruby. Smoky and earthy nose, not entirely appetising. This follows on the palate, with rasping tannin that masks dark and ripe fruit. At the moment this wine is dominated by structure. Perhaps it needs time to show its potential. (TP)