2017 - Chateauneuf-du-Pape Guigasse, Chapelle St. Theodoric

More powerful than its Le Grand Pin stablemate, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape La Guigasse is made the same minimalistic way—100% whole-cluster Grenache from a single site, in this case a sandy parcel in the lieu-dit La Guigasse. Raised in demi-muids for two years or more, depending on the vintage, it has some meaty, charred notes that could be barrel-derived, but the overall oak impact is probably more textural than olfactory. Hints of rose petals, cherries and even orange zest join with darker toned notes of cola and dried spices in a whirl of complexity that's complemented by the wine's silky tannins. It's full-bodied but feels lighter, filling the mouth with its flavors while leaving the palate refreshed on the long finish.

Dark crimson. Highly perfumed scents of red and dark berry preserves, exotic spices and potpourri; an incense flourish adds complexity. Stains the palate with juicy Chambord, cherry pie and lavender pastille flavors that deepen steadily with aeration. The seamless, penetrating finish displays outstanding clarity, appealing sweetness and just a whisper of fine-grained tannins.

100% Grenache. Mint, garrigue, bramble fruit – much more developed and nuanced than their 2016. Riper fruit on the palate too, although there is still a great deal of tannic gruffness. Strongly savoury finish that removes any fruit ripeness, leaving this remarkably tough. This might improve with age, but it's tough to love right now. (RH)