2014 - Barolo Vignarionda Riserva, Massolino

The 2014 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is elegant, silky and vibrant. Massolino was among the few producers who were able to ride out a cold, rainy summer and let fruit hang through a late summer and early fall that were blessed with warm, dry weather and cool nights—perfect conditions for opening Nebbiolo. The 2014 is so sensual, so pure. Another recent bottle showed more mid-palate depth. Either way, the Massolino Rionda is an unqualified success in 2014.

The Massolino 2014 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is a wine that speaks of vintage as articulately as it speaks of site. The 2014 vintage is one of the most distinctive within these past two decades, with a quality of fruit that is fine, light, ethereal and almost fragile. However, Serralunga d'Alba, where the Vignarionda cru is located, is always characterized by extra power, structure and fruit weight. In a sense, this Riserva represents an intersection between those two opposites, showing both elegance and muscle. The wine opens to a pretty garnet color, and the aromatic intensity is well developed and capped by a mid-weight finish. Wild berry tones are followed by iron ore, blood orange and camphor ash. Massolino farms 2.6 hectares within the cru with calcareous and marlstone soils. Some 8,500 bottles were made, and this wine will be released in September 2020.

Serralunga d’Alba. ‘A small quantity of grapes harvested very late. Practically what was left over after a severe selection of the fruit.’ Lustrous mid ruby. Hints of exotic spice, pet shop and subtle but ripe fruit. Nervy acidity running through supple red fruit. Elegant, long and understated and only after a little while you become aware of its enormous length. (WS)