2016 - Barolo Cascina Nuova, Elvio Cogno

Of the four Elvio Cogno Baroli out on the market now, this wine is the most immediate and accessible of the bunch. Production is an ample 20,000 bottles. The 2016 Barolo Cascina Nuova is a terrific wine with impeccable balance. The bouquet offers dark fruit aromas, licorice, smoke, tar and spice. These aromatic pieces slide together with precision to create an intriguing and multifaceted puzzle. It shows good fruit weight and concentration, reinforced by firm tannins, freshness and a silky mouthfeel. This is a terrific go-to Barolo from a classic vintage. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then ages for two years in botte grande made with Slavonian oak.

Cogno's 2016 Barolo Cascina Nuova is absolutely gorgeous. Pliant and expressive on the palate, the 2016 has a touch more mid-palate sweetness and texture than in the past, when the wine has been more nervous in feel. Sweet red cherry, blood orange, mint, wild flowers, cedar, sweet tobacco and anise all open up effortlessly. Silky tannins add to its considerable immediacy and appeal. This is such a pretty wine in its peer group and also a terrific example of how attractive more modestly priced Barolos are in 2016.

Novello. Lustrous mid ruby. Signature depth of fruit combined with finesse. Spice and minerals, cherry and raspberry with a suggestion of liquorice. There is a certain leggerezza but at the same time profound and deep but without being heavy. Fine, firm long grainy tannins clinging to the fruit. Composed energy. Easily one of the best-buy wines of the vintage – should be GV. (WS)