2016 - Barolo Ornato, Pio Cesare

With fruit from Serralunga d'Alba, the Pio Cesare 2016 Barolo Ornato offers a stunning presentation in this classic vintage. The bouquet shows small berry fruits and cassis, all framed by crushed stone, forest floor, blue flower and candied orange skin. There is a dusty mineral note to this wine as well, with terrific intensity on both the nose and the palate. The Ornato kicks in with finely integrated tannins and acidity that holds all those fruit flavors high and tall. What we have here is a standout Barolo that is staunchly vertical, linear and upfront. Some 10,000 bottles were produced.

The 2016 Barolo Ornato is a gorgeous wine. Moreover, it very clearly represents a shift towards a more classic style. I think this is the first time I have tasted the real character of Serralunga in Pio Cesare’s Ornato. I don’t mean the rich, oak-laden textures of the past, but the wild herbs, minerals and ferrous notes that are typical of so many wines in this sector of Serralunga. A wine of power and intensity, the Ornato is so impressive in 2016. It will need a few years to soften (at least), but there is plenty to look forward to.

Serralunga d’Alba. Cask sample. A shade deeper and more lustrous than the Classico cask sample tasted alongside. Hints of sweet spice and minerals and earth on the nose. Succulent and elegant and with polished but tightly built tannins. Seems a shade lighter compared with the 2015 Ornato. A little more elegant a little less powerful and more immediate. Fresh raspberry and cherry finish with real bite. (WS)