2022 - Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan

The 2022 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is the finest wine bottled to date at this estate under Patrice Pichet's ownership and Guillaume Pouthier's direction. Unfurling from the glass with aromas of violet, iris, dark wild berries, pencil lead and mulberries, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated with a deep core of fruit beautifully framed by velvety, precise tannins, segueing into a long, saline and perfumed finish. Suave and harmonious, it was crafted with 70% whole bunches and matured in 70% new oak. This unconventional blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot represents a turning point for the estate, cementing its rapid ascendancy in the Bordeaux firmament.

This was bottled in September 2024, so at the time of tasting has only been in bottle three months. The blend is 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot, with 70% whole-cluster vinification, and the élevage was in 70% oak barrels (75% new oak, 25% used), 15% in foudre s and 10% in terracotta amphorae. An expressive but also fine and delineated character on the nose, with scents of liquorice, blackberry, dried blackcurrant, dark chocolate, coffee bean and rose petal, showing an elegant Pessac-Léognan perfume. Retasted at the property the showing was perfectly consistent, straight from the bottle. The palate is charming, finely integrated and fresh, broadening out from a cool and quietly spoken start to a well-defined midpalate substance, correct, with finely polished and savoury fruit infused with classy fine-boned tannins with a powdery intensity which ease themselves onto the palate at the very end. There is a saline energy here, presumably tied to the used of whole cluster vinification, which enchants. A very stylish interpretation of the vintage, long and savoury, restrained in its body yet very expressive, and infused with those classy, mouth-watering tannins. Superb elegance, and a long energy. Give it ten years and more, this will be stunning. The alcohol on the label is 13.5%.

Intense ruby colour, careful extraction. Love this, less in the style of the vintage in terms of exuberance than many, with a trace of austerity to the architecture. Has keeps its distinct character, showing mint leaf, crushed rose petals, vivid with a purity of fruit expression. The 70% limestone is distinctive, the high Cabernet Franc is distinctive, and the choices they make in the cellar underline these distinctions. Guillaume Pouthier director, Guillaume Deschepper technical director. First year ageing, with 70% new oak, second year move into larger oak casks and 10% amphoras. 70% whole cluster.

The 2022 Les Carmes Haut-Brion contains the highest proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (34%) in recent years, with 40% Cabernet Franc and 26% Merlot. It aged for two years in 80% new barrels, 10% foudres and 10% sandstone amphora. This is the first year with 100% infusion during vinification. It includes 70% whole cluster. This is very complex on the nose, as it showed in barrel, displaying blackberry mixed with wild hedgerow, pencil box and hints of cracked black pepper in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with quite elegant tannins, although the IPT is 95. Extremely well balanced, it is quite saline in the mouth with white pepper developing with aeration. The 2022 is very persistent on the finish. This is an intellectual Les Carmes Haut-Brion that will drink young, but there is clearly the substance to mature over many years. 13.2% alcohol.

40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot.Very dark blackish purple. Neat, concentrated but with the fruit rather than the tannins very much dominant. Almost gamey and with a very different structure from most of these 2022s. I'm not sure I'd pick it as a Graves but it's a very distinctive red bordeaux. Lightly sandy finish but not punishingly drying. More fragrant than most but a bit inky. (JR)