2014 - Piper Heidsieck, Rare Rose

Tasted from magnum, disgorged in July 2023 with a dosage of nine grams per liter, the 2014 Rare Rosé Millésime displays a deeper hue than its two predecessors. Flamboyant and demonstrative, it bursts from the glass with aromas of blood orange, apricot, cherry and wild strawberry, mingling with candied pear and a touch of buttered toast. Incorporating 18% red wine from Les Riceys, it is full-bodied and muscular, with a rich and sweet core of fruit, succulent yet vibrant acidity and pillowy mousse, finishing long and perfumed with a subtle phenolic grip. While not as incisive or deep as the 2008, nor as harmonious as the 2012, this rather powerful rendition possesses the attributes to evolve nicely over time, aging on its generous structure.

60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir. Chardonnay: Villers-Marmery, Vertus, Montgueux, Avize, Oger; Pinot Noir: Aÿ, Ambonnay, Verzy; red wine: Les Riceys (18%). Full malo. Minimum 8 years on lees. Dosage 9 g/l. Magnum. Mid orangey salmon colour – dilute Campari? – much deeper than many rosés. Not that much nose but on the palate it is really deliciously balanced and very fruity with pomegranate notes – with less bitterness on the end than many rosé champagnes. It will probably develop more interest on the nose with time in bottle but it drinks beautifully now. Long. One of those wines that builds towards the appetisingly dry finish. Rather scrumptious. (JR)