2015 - Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett, von Hovel

The 2015 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett is clear, fresh and discreet, but very fine and elegant on the bright yet deep, flinty and floral-flavored nose. Round, ripe and lush, but with the typical Saar piquancy and precision, this is a complex, mineral and grippy Scharzhofberger with great elegance, length and finesse. Very long and extremely stimulating, this an expressive terroir wine with 7.5% alcohol and 46 grams of residual sugar. A picture-book Kabinett.

After having rendered a 2014 of 9 percent alcohol with noticeably more fullness and less sweetness than usual in a Saar Kabinett, von Kunow stopped this featherweight 2015 entry with a mere 7.5 percent alcohol. Yet, thanks no doubt in part to talents intrinsic to this site, not just on account of high acidity, the sense of sweetness here comes off as perfectly supportive and unobtrusive. Cress and mint reminiscent of the Hütte inflect white peach for a luscious, subtly cooling yet persistently invigorating performance. Hints of stone, peach kernel and tangy peach skin add further animating appeal to the lingering finish.