Domaine Virgile Lignier-Michelot
Domaine Virgile Lignier-Michelot is located in Morey-Saint-Denis, in the heart of the great terroirs of Burgundy. The village of Morey-Saint-Denis is on the Route des Grands Crus, between Chambolle-Musigny, to the south, and Gevrey-Chambertin, to the north. The appellation covers nearly 150 hectares and has 5 Grands Crus including the illustrious Clos Saint Denis and Clos de la Roche.
Domaine Lignier-Michelot is a family story that started 3 generations ago. Virgile Lignier worked with his father from 1988, taking full charge of the domaine in 2000. A huge amount of work has been done by Virgile in recent years: ploughing the soil, reducing yields with increased green harvesting, and stopping the use of chemicals. Beautifully pure and terroir driven wines. Virgile only uses 30% new oak in his cuvees to accentuate the specific vineyard character.
Currently managed by Laure and Virgile Lignier, the vineyard covers 12 hectares divided into sixty plots on some of the best climats of the Côte de Nuits, in the villages of Morey-Saint-Denis, Gevrey-Chambertin, Fixin, Chambolle-Musigny and Nuits-Saint-Georges. Louis (pictured) currently works in the vines and in the cellar whilst he is finishing his studies.
Laure and Virgile take the greatest care in working the soil in order to respect the biodiversity and the typicity of the great terroirs of Burgundy. They are very attentive to the work carried out in the vines. Meticulous in culture, Virgile Lignier minimises cellar intervention in order to guarantee the purity and indulgence of his wines.
They use lighter methods of extraction: 3-4 pigeages for grand cru, 3 for 1er cru and 1 for villages. They always look for lighter, softer tannins and this is part of their goal to make more elegant wines.
The Vintage
2020 was an early vintage - small, concentrated berries. 2020 has similar alcohol levels to 2019 and they are a wonderful pair of vintages, but 2020 is more tannic.
Neal Martin (Vinous.com December 2021):
Virgile Lignier is often a good litmus test of Morey-Saint-Denis’s performance in a growing season, since the core of his portfolio is several well-regarded Premier Crus. “For all my cuvées, there is more than 70% whole bunch and some are 100%," he told me as we descended to his barrel cellar. "We started picking on August 28, and it was very quick, as I remembered what happened with the 2018 vintage. It’s incredible to have this freshness, though I was skeptical at first – I thought the wines would be too heavy. But the whole bunch and tartaric acidity levels impart the acidity. The alcohol levels range from 12.8° to 13.8° and here, everything is closed under natural cork." Lignier’s wines habitually veer toward the black rather than the red fruit side, stylistically similar to Domaine Arlaud, whose winery is a stone’s throw away. There were a couple of cuvées where I feel the stems were a little trop and detracted from the terroir expression, but otherwise the wines have the intensity to make sure they do not overwhelm. Though I often favour Lignier’s Clos Saint-Denis, in 2020 it was the Clos de la Roche that took top honours, while among the Premier Crus I particularly like the Faconnières.
The Wines
At a Glance:
Morey St Denis En La Rue de Vergy
£198 per 6 x 75cl IB pre-arrival late 2022 
Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Chenevery
£375 per 6 x 75cl IB pre-arrival late 2022
Morey St Denis 1er Cru Les Genavrières
£375 per 6 x 75cl IB pre-arrival late 2022
Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnières
£375 per 6 x 75cl IB pre-arrival late 2022
Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers
£395 per 6 x 75cl IB pre-arrival late 2022
Read More About Each Wine Below
Morey St Denis En La Rue de Vergy
£198 per 6 x 75cl IB pre-arrival late 2022
Fifty-year-old vines located on a 1.8 hectare plot above the Grand Cru Clos de Tart. It is a minerality driven Morey-Saint-Denis which equals a Premier Cru, vinified with 50 to 70% whole bunches. A cuvée of 7,500 bottles which is currently at its peak with a perfect balance between the age of the vines and the yield.
The characteristics of the higher altitudes are very different to the lower vineyards and this is very visible in the wine. It has the quality of 1er cru due to global warming and its location high on the slope.
More intense on the nose. A delightful perfumed sweetness. The minerality and freshness is even more apparent. Briar fruit with grippy tannins.
88-90 points - Vinous
Drinking window: 2025 - 2036
The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis en la Rue de Vergy is quite high-toned on the nose: macerated black cherries, hints of black olive and light marine scents. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, fine acidity, quite compact towards the finish where I am just looking for a little more depth and flesh. Hopefully, it will fatten out a bit.
Neal Martin. November 2021
-
91-93 points - Inside Burgundy
Fractionally less intense colour from its hillside location. Pleasing blackberry and fresh raspberry notes. Clean and pure with a red fruit backbone and a little touch of vanilla from the barrel, but the fruit is in the ascendant with a very pretty tingle from the whole bunch.
Jasper Morris. December 2021
Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Chenevery
£375 per 6 x 75cl IB pre-arrival late 2022
This 37-acre plot is located below Faconnières. One part is in the village appellation and another in Premier Cru. The limestone soils give a lot of mineral character to this wine. Made with 60-70% whole cluster, this small cuvée of 1,400 bottles comes from 50 year old, very mature vines. This gives a floral nose and a beautiful salinity on the palate, lots of subtlety and elegance.
More intense red on the nose, not as floral. Deep and soft sweet cherries, marzipan. Cherry pie, creamy texture, nice tannins, balanced, elegant but powerful.
91-93 points - Vinous
Drinking window: 2025 - 2048
The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Chenevery 1er Cru was showing just a little more oak on the nose compared to Virgile Lignier’s other Morey Premier Crus. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins, weighty and broad-shouldered, fine acidity with just a touch of dark chocolate/mocha towards the persistent finish. Lot of horsepower here, though I err more towards the Faconnières or Genavrières this year.
Neal Martin. November 2021
-
91-94 points - Inside Burgundy
Just below Faconnières, the last to be picked as this plot struggles to ripen so easily and there is enough minerality. Two thirds whole bunch, more than he usually uses here. The usual deep purple-black colour, the nose a little bit more forthcoming, with some red fruit. Some structure behind, and then an extra kick of fruit. Waiting has worked here. Peppery finish Ta
Jasper Morris. December 2021
Morey St Denis 1er Cru Les Genavrières
£375 per 6 x 75cl IB pre-arrival late 2022
These vines, on average around fifty years old, are found on the slopes of Morey-Saint-Denis, above the Grand Cru of Clos de la Roche. Genavrieres is a small climat produced since 2019 in small quantities: only 600 bottles. Vinified with 80% whole bunches. This Morey-Saint-Denis combines generosity and subtlety with aromas of crunchy red berries.
Spicy and a bit earthy on the nose. Lovely juicy red berries and cherries on the palate. Well integrated oak. Very soft. Lovely spice and very intense and rich. Balance between sweetness, acidity, tannins. Cherries, cherries, cherries. Tres Beau!
92-94 pts - Vinous
Drinking window: 2025 - 2048
The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Genavrières 1er Cru only finished its malolactic in June ‘21. Nevertheless, this has fine delineation and poise on the nose, taut and fresh with impressive mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy and ripe, very pure and perhaps the most sensual and Chambolle-like on the finish. Excellent.
Neal Martin. November 2021
-
91-94 points - Inside Burgundy
80% whole bunch. Huge black intensity, apparently every year including 2021. The bouquet is ungiving at first, almost too solid to give away any detail. Virgile obviously loves it. Nothing like as untouchable on the palate with some blackberry fruits, altogether a little softer. I cannot quite decide how to categorise this as it doesn’t feel like a hillside wine. Lush and long though.
Jasper Morris. December 2021
Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnières
£375 per 6 x 75cl IB pre-arrival late 2022
The oldest vines on the estate. Around 3,500 bottles each year with 80% whole cluster. This Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru is one of the emblematic cuvées of the estate. Whatever the vintage, it is a wine that reveals its terroir with a remarkable aromatic palette. A complete and seductive Morey-Saint-Denis. (Next to Clos St Denis).
Delicate soft red fruits on the nose with a little spice. Lovely spice on palate, with cherries and a creamy texture, almost pastry notes. Almonds and bright cherries – like marzipan. Strawberries/raspberries too. Lovely, glorious - even better than 2019?
93-95 pts - Vinous
Drinking window: 2026 - 2048
The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Faconnières 1er Cru has a taut and slightly flinty bouquet. This is well-defined and focused, touches of clove and sous-bois emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, good acidity with a touch more density on the finish compared to the Aux Charmes. Cellar this for 3-5 years - this is a strong follow-up to the superb '19.
Neal Martin. November 2021
-
93-96 points - Inside Burgundy
Not just an excellent site but with top class pinot material. One of the deepest colours but with a salutary brightness. Such a density of mixed fruits on the nose, nothing specific stands out though certainly a little more on the darker side of the register. This has both backbone and an intensity of fruit which impresses. At least halfway to grand cru in its build! Some tannins, well integrated and wonderful potential.
Jasper Morris. December 2021
Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers
£395 per 6 x 75cl IB pre-arrival late 2022
A plot located in the northern part of Nuits-Saint-Georges, bordering the Vosne-Romanée appellation. Full of finesse and lots of floral aromas. Around 2,400 bottles are each year. A wine that needs time before enjoying its potential. This particular plot likes hot vintages and is always fresh with nice acidity due to the limestone soils.
A very pretty red nose, creamy and soft with violets. Lovely sweet juicy red fruits on the palate, quite ripe, great acidity and spice. Red apples, cherries, cranberries. Crunchy, pretty on finish. Long, nice tannins, but with juicy red berries on finish.
90-92 points - Vinous
Drinking window: 2025 - 2035
The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Murgers 1er Cru sported a tiny reduction on the nose, although there is clearly plenty of fruit packed into this wine. The palate is quite sweet and candied on the entry with orange zest and dark plum, slightly chocolaty towards the finish that has just the right amount of bitterness, though just misses length on the aftertaste.
Neal Martin. November 2021
-
93-95 points - Inside Burgundy
The usual purple black colour. A very lively fruit, with a fresh thread right through the middle. High class Nuits with that little additional lift from Vosne proximity. This is one of the best balanced wines of the range, light on its feet despite the concentration of ripe fruit. Impressive.
Jasper Morris. December 2021