From a recently released bottle disgorged in 2018, the 1997 Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil Brut is showing very well indeed, offering up aromas of citrus oil, crushed chalk, white flowers, warm bread and iodine that are appreciably more youthful than the more mature dried fruit tones that readers will find in bottles of the original disgorgement. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, tensile and incisive, with superb concentration, chalky structure and a long, searingly mineral finish. The 2018 disgorgement saw 3.5 grams per liter dosage, somewhat less than the original release. While the 1996 has the edge, I doubt that, 20 years ago, anyone could have imagined how close the 1997 and 1996 would be as they approach maturity.
William Kelley - 30 August 2019