At 8.5% alcohol and entering the realm of botrytis, the Schonlebers’ 2009 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Auslese was harvested October 25 in a portion of its Einzellage that every year is relatively conducive to noble rot, “though I can’t really figure out why that’s so,” remarks Werner Schonleber. Around half the fruit here, however, was healthy and golden, while the most advanced botrytis and the thoroughly-shriveled berries were segregated to inform this year’s T.B.A. Brown spiced apple; almost overripe pear and musk melon; and quince preserves in the nose migrate to a glossy, glycerin-rich palate, joined by salted caramel, marzipan, and hazelnut paste. For all of its confectionary tendencies, this delicate, dreamy, striking Auslese remains lusciously juicy through its luxuriously lingering finish. I suspect that the balance rather gently struck here will be preserved for at least the next 25 years.