Picked-out, like its Hermannshohle counterpart, in the last, early-November days of harvest, Donnhoff's 2010 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese gold capsule was, he estimates, ""perhaps 50% affected by botrytis, and dry botrytis, no mere rot."" Candied lime rind and marzipan; lily and honeysuckle; white peach and salted caramel inform this wine's haunting nose and rich yet buoyant palate, with the mouthwatering savor that characterized the corresponding Spatlese undiminished. This needs some time in bottle to better focus, and it will be interesting to see whether it develops more sense of cut and brightness. But it's already irresistible, and almost sure to prove worth following for a quarter century or more.
David Schildknecht - 23 December 2011