Peat, wood smoke, leather, and soy in the nose of Chevillons’ 2008 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Cailles are joined and complimented by rich cherry and plum on the stubbornly gum-coating palate. A tart fruit skin edge; fruit pit piquancy; brown spices; chalky underpinnings; and saliva-inducing salinity all contribute to the invigoration and vibratory, lip-quivering intensity of a multi-faceted finish. There is certain handsome leanness here – bordering on austerity – but what a lot of energy as well! Lock some away for half a dozen years and expect it to perform impressively until at least age 18.