2010 - Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese, Joh. Jos. Prum

Lemon, pineapple, and blackcurrant site-typically scent the Prum 2010 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese and are then projected onto a palate underlain with wet stone. A faintly smoky, prickly aura of reduction doesn’t preclude one relishing this wine’s effusive, delectable juiciness. Indeed, like the bit of CO2 Spritz that typically characterizes Prum Rieslings, it somehow enhances the wines appealingly invigorating nervous energy. Salt and stone seem to be thoroughly deposited in a tongue-quivering finish. Expect this to – again in estate-typical fashion – reward 20-30 years’ bottle maturation. Katharina Prum says she and her father performed some de-acidification on their eventual generic Kabinett bottling as wine, but otherwise employed only sparingly light double-salt must de-acidification, insisting that late harvesting was the essential measure to be taken this year against high acidity. (And, as usual, most of the wines were bottled in high summer, relatively late when compared with those of nearly all their Middle Mosel neighbors.) It’s not so much that measurable acidity dropped significantly in the second half of October, opined Prum, but that the character of the acidity changed in immeasurable ways. Other than the aforementioned generic bottling, concentration was deemed simply too high this year for any of an already small crop to be rendered as Kabinett. And indeed, only the two most prominent sites were captured in Spatlese format; all else is Auslese and above. Prum notes that levels of residual sugar are seldom significantly higher this year than in other recent vintages, with the result that the wines generally tend to taste a bit drier. “Above and beyond” (as it were) those wines I report on (or whose existence I at least mention) below, there is material from Wehlener Sonnenuhr expected to inform long gold capsule Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese and be released in future years. (Veteran readers of my reports will know by

Apricot pit, lime zest and clove on the nose. The delicate nectarine flavor atnd creamy texture are held aloft by nutmeg and mineral salts. Bright and lively sp atlese, with a slate element providing lift to the satisfying finish.