2010 - Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione, Salicutti

This 2010 Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione is still incredibly youthful and vibrant. It starts off with delicate, wild strawberry and cool, red cherry aromas. It has a wonderfully gentle, caressing texture that makes it irresistible to drink. At the same time, it has bright, vibrant acidity which gives the wine a certain nervy, edginess. It still feels young and tenacious despite being 13 years old! On the palate, flavors of cool, just ripe, red cherry and spice intertwine with notes of perfumed violet and rose that come and go. I love the filigree, lacy texture set against the taut and vibrant acidity. This is an example of Sangiovese at its best.

Salicutti’s 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione lifts from the glass with the most exquisite aromatics imaginable. The 2010 has really come together over the last six months. I suppose that should not be too much of a surprise, as the 2010 was bottled later than normal, but I am still deeply impressed with how nuanced and complete the Piaggione is today. Proprietor Francesco Leanza has done a fabulous job elevating these wines over the last few years. This is another Brunello that on any other night is the best wine on the table. Tonight it is merely sublime and haunting in its beauty.

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione shows an authentic personality that is characterized by dark berry fruit, spice, leather, cola and grilled herb. The wine has that level of tangled complexity that you get with organic winemaking. It's endearing but also a little messy at the same time. It's the proverbial wine that colors outside the lines. Despite my mild hesitation regarding the bouquet, I can express deep admiration for what is achieved here in terms of mouthfeel. The wine is solid and firm but is also shows balanced acidity and zesty energy. The finish is almost piquant or spicy. I look forward to trying this beauty in ten years' time.