2014 - Leoville Las Cases, Saint-Julien

Less exuberant than some of its neighbours, as you might expect, but no less exceptional. Very much in the estate signature, demanding attention but expecting you to wait and pay homage until it is ready to speak. Give it time to unveil its muscular, concentrated cassis and bilberry fruits, puncuated by crushed mint leaf, crayon and liqourice bud. Huge depth through the mid palate, serious, structured, very much in the estate signature, showcasing the idea of it being a wine that is Burdundian in its balance of frustration and delight. Huge potential, but as I said last time I tasted it around a year ago, for now it's not giving much away. 50% new oak.

A brilliant effort, the 2014 Léoville Las Cases is a tightly wound classic that will delight purists. Mingling aromas of dark berries and cassis with hints of bitter chocolate, sweet spices, cigar wrapper, pencil shavings and sweet new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with tangy acids and a deep, firm mid-palate framed by rich, powdery tannins. Concluding with a long, penetrating finish, the only missing ingredient is time.

The 2014 Léoville Las-Cases has a backward nose with the unenviable task of following the Léoville Poyferré. But there is complexity here, more tertiary in style, with autumn leaves and cigar smoke infusing the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannins, fleshy to the degree that it disguises the backbone. Mouthfilling on the finish that actually reminds me of Léoville Poyferré. Seductive. Tasted blind at the Southwold 10-Year-On tasting.

Tasted blind. Deep garnet. Oak sweetness combines with black fruit and leafy perfume and lead pencil. Very firm, slightly oaky and lots of freshness. Powerful but in balance for the long term. (JH)