2000 - Leoville Las Cases, Saint-Julien

The 2000 Léoville Las Cases takes time to unwind in the decanter and glass, but when it begins to show all its cards, the display is spectacular. Mingling aromas of dark berries and red fruits with aromas of pencil shavings, loamy soil, cedar box, bitter chocolate, dried rose petals and licorice, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered, complete mid-palate that's rare in this vintage, powdery tannins and a long, resonant finish. An uncompromising classic, even as it closes in on its 22nd birthday, the 2000 Las Cases remains an infant in terms of evolution.

Side by side with the Latour 2000, so both at 26 years old, this is showing a little less evolution, but also a little less joy at this stage - a reminder that Las Cases is a wine for the most patient among us. Fabulous sculpted tannins, standing loud and proud laced with cocoa bean, graphite, blackberry, damson and eucalyptus, with wet stone minerality, and a clear Cabernet-dominant profile. Harvest September 29 to October 11.

The 2000 Léoville Las Cases is a vintage that I have encountered a dozen or so times. Jean-Hubert Délon oversaw a magnificent wine in this year. The nose of graphite-infused black fruit is still vivacious and very complex, very Pauillac-like, and supremely well focused. Hints of licorice develop with aeration. The medium-bodied palate features sappy black fruit and perfectly judged acidity. Complex and delineated, with marine-tinged mulberry and black currant notes given a deft Oriental touch on the finish. Bottles are only just beginning to drink perfectly now and will last another 30 or more years.

Dark black cherry colour. Oaky and spicy up front. Peppery spice. A little bit of leafy freshness but bags of generous fruit. Slight dustiness. Rich, smooth and dry minerality over rich deep, sweet fruit. Firm chocolate-textured tannins. Bold but not brash. Still quite a bit of oak spice. Not giving itself yet. Powerful. Maybe could drink it sooner with food. Very dense and Cabernet-dominated (77%). (JH)