2022 - Leoville Las Cases, Saint-Julien

The 2022 Léoville Las Cases is just as remarkable in bottle as it was from barrel. Wafting from the glass with aromas of beautifully pure cassis fruit mingled with notions of violets, burning embers and subtle cigar box, it has already almost entirely integrated its new oak. Full-bodied, dense and layered, it's deep and resonant, with striking concentration, precision and harmony, concluding with a long, palate-staining finish. This striking Saint-Julien really is one of the wines of the vintage, and the best young Léoville Las Cases I've ever tasted.

The assemblage of the Delon grand vin is 83.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10.5% Cabernet Franc and 6% Merlot, and the press wine accounts for 8% of the blend. The élevage was in 85% new oak barrels for 18 months. The aromatics here are striking, with an almost confit intensity to the fruits, sweet currant and cranberry, with a touch of white pepper and pressed iris. The palate starts out with an immediately complete style, a fresh and polished substance which shimmers with dark fruits, liquorice, olive, tar and salted black cherries, all of which lies draped over a rich and ripe tannic structure, which provides a beautifully harmonious presence through the end of the palate and into the finish. Such delicious and divine harmony here, with great tannic structure, which builds to a strong crescendo in the midpalate on a second taste, the interplay between the dark tannins and the salted black fruits just glorious, and yet it all feels so fresh and bright. The finish is long and gripped by powdery, polished tannins which linger forever at the end of the palate. The alcohol is 14% on the label.

Cassis puree, bitter chocolate, so much power and intensity, with a joy and an immediacy that you rarely get in Las Cases. The tannins have a slight tug on the finish which tells you that the power of this vintage remains a little unruly, needs wrestling into place on this particular site. But hard to argue with, layered, powerful, confident, slow-moving. Arnaud Delon is joining his father at the Delon estates, and the new winery is due for completion by September 2025. 84% new oak for ageing. Eric Boissenot consultant, harvest September 8 to 30.

The nascent 2022 Léoville Las-Cases, matured in 85% new oak, instantly makes an impression and vindicates my rhapsodizing from barrel. Intense yet boasting exquisite delineation, the aromatics are endowed with immense depth, retaining those estuarine nuances, hints of blue fruit, fig and crushed violets. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins. Stunningly balanced and poised, satin-like in texture yet with ample backbone and grip to guarantee longevity, this ranks amongst the best Grand Vins that I have tasted from Jean-Hubert Delon's Saint-Julien estate. This flirts with perfection.

Tasted blind. Very dark. Lots lurking in there, so it’s almost dank! Then very sweet and luscious. Sweeter and richer than most with a hint of greenness on the end. Not classic St-Julien but a wine with appeal, even if not for classicists. [Less austere than some older vintages.] (JR)