2002 - Leoville Las Cases, Saint-Julien

Deeper in colour and presence than the 1995, this jumps into the world of young Las Cases, a reminder that 20 years of age is pretty much the minimum to begin truly drinking and appreciating this wine, as it makes its shift from monumental to graceful. Black fruit, cassis, blackberry, tannins are tingling and gripping, transmitting power and energy to the mint leaf, slate, crushed rock and eucalyptus finish. Just revving out of the gate, and as it lingers in the glass, the earthy truffled notes you find in the older vintages are just making an appearance, the ghost of Las Cases future. A tightrope walk of concentration and elegance. 50% new oak. Jean-Hubert Delon owner.

Another underrated vintage for this estate is the 2002 Léoville Las Cases, an impressively deep and concentrated wine that still has considerable upside potential. Offering up aromas of crème de cassis, plums, loamy soil, pencil shavings and nicely integrated new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with a deep core of fruit framed by sweet, powdery tannins. This is a concentrated, characterful classic that is aging with real grace. I have enjoyed three bottles this year, but there's no rush, as the wine remains an adolescent in terms of evolution.

Moderately saturated red-ruby. Captivating if cooler nose of blackcurrant, licorice and minerals. Very intensely flavored and gripping if currently quite tight. The black fruit and menthol flavors show an almost medicinal austerity and uncanny penetration on the palate. Very ripe for 2002, at 13.5%, with a pH of 3.85. Today, I find a more classically firm finish and a bit more personality than in the young 2004, but then the new vintage has a long way to go before it's in bottle.