2019 - Sassicaia, Tenuta San Guido, Bolgheri

This 2019 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia is really very special. A subtle change has occurred and the typically aristocratic and elegant finesse of Sassicaia now has a little more joie de vivre. It is intense and deeply concentrated without being heavy and with very fine, beautifully integrated tannins that harmonize with the body of the wine. Carlo Paoli, MD and head of winemaking, views 2019 as “one of the great vintages of the last decades. Although it was not generous in quantity (about 15% less than in 2016), for the quality of the grapes… it is to be considered exceptional.” The winemaking team are at their peak in terms of understanding and managing the vineyards and the more extreme vintage variations they face due to climate change. There were 280,000 bottles made this year but in response to climate change, Paoli plans to reduce the quantity. The 2019 reminds me a lot of the sublime 2016 but somehow it is bolder with even more energy, vivacity, and exuberance. Drink from 2024-2050.

Tasting this in a vertical with a good 20 year gap between the oldest and the youngest wines, and although this is only five years old, with clear density to the flavours, it's striking that the soft caress of the tannins that you find in the 1988 is still in evidence in the younger wine. Smoky peat aromatics, rich red cherry, raspberry, balsamic, iron, oyster shell salinity, a careful climb in the tannins, it's all here already. A wonderful vintage in Tuscany, great clarity on the palate, the feeling that you are in the presence of true beauty. Just at the starting blocks but an exceptional wine. 40% new oak for ageing, Carlo Paoli director.

Tenuta San Guido’s 2019 Bolgheri Sassicaia remains somewhat reserved or "behind" aromatically, signaling that it still has a long road ahead before reaching its peak drinking window. It shows rich concentration with elegant fruit weight and a pretty mineral backline, supported by natural spiciness, freshness and energy. Phenolically rich and reminiscent of the slower-aging 2009 vintage, the bouquet is distinguished by a black petrol or campfire ash character that gradually gives way to plump, sweet fruit and bright accents of spice. The palate reveals texture through slowly resolving tannins, and while the 2019 can feel a touch more abrupt when tasted alongside the supremely fluid and supple 2023, it promises depth and longevity with further cellaring.

The 2019 Sassicaia is restrained and also a bit reticent in its first impression. Rose petal, dried herbs, blood orange, mint, sweet pipe tobacco and cinnamon give the 2019 striking aromatic presence. The 2019 is a mid-weight, very classic feeling Sassicaia that is going to need a number of years to open. There's good fruit depth, but the tannins are not as polished as they usually are. That could be a result of lingering stress from frost that year or recent bottling. The 2019 saw 18-20 days on the skins with natural ferments. Malos followed in tank. Aging was 25 months in barrel (1/3rd new), a longer elevage than normal. The 2019 shows beautifully with a few hours of aeration, so I am optimistic for the future. Let's see what happens. (Originally Published in March 2022)

Lustrous mid ruby. More classic, if you like, than the 2022, 2021 or 2020 with brooding, contained richness. Raspberry and hints of cassis with a touch of cigar box and the merest suggestion of eucalyptus, but overall still a little closed. Slow to emerge but layered. Sleek yet concentrated but still quite subdued on the palate. A near-perfect balance between firm, polished tannins clinging to the juicy, elegant fruit and streamlined by energetic acidity. You could decant this and enjoy it but it will take some time to get to its peak. (WS)