2007 - Alceo, Rampolla

The 2007 d’Alceo shows none of the Sammarco’s early appeal. It is a dark, inward wine imbued with black fruit, roasted coffee beans, grilled herbs and licorice, all of which build effortlessly towards the huge, explosive finish. This exquisite d’Alceo will require significant patience. d’Alceo remains a model of the level French varieties can reach in Tuscany. In 2007 the blend is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032. This is a stunning set of wines from Castello di Rampolla. The 2007s are some of the finest wines I have ever tasted from this reference point winery. Despite all of their success, the Di Napoli family continues to work towards improving quality. The estate has significantly reduced the amount of time the Sammarco and d’Alceo spend in oak to 12 months and dropped new oak levels down to around 1/3rd, while holding the wines back longer in bottle, all decisions that are allowing the fruit from these phenomenal sites to be incredibly expressive and delineated. With the 2009s, some of the wines are fermented in cement. Back to the future? Perhaps, but there is no denying the superb quality of the estate’s top 2007s. These are dazzling wines by any measure. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

(75% cabernet sauvignon and 25% petit verdot; 14.5% alcohol): Deep purple-ruby. Knockout nose combines blackcurrant, violet, coffee, menthol, tar and graphite. The palate offers an uncanny combination of sweetness and penetrating power, with brisk acidity framing and lifting the very rich flavors of black fruits, minerals and spices. The very long, soft, supple finish conveys an impression of energy and youthfulness, not to mention the structure for a graceful evolution in bottle. Lay this one down.